Selbach-Oster Zeltinger Sonnenuhr Riesling Spatlese Trocken, Mosel, Germany

澤巴赫酒莊塞爾廷日晷園雷司令晚采收干白葡萄酒

點(diǎn)擊次數(shù)：13444

From a superbly-exposed parcel hear the Rotlay and tiny, loose clusters on some of the estate’s oldest vines, the Selbach-Oster 2009 Zeltinger Sonnenuhr Riesling Spatlese trocken was able to hang until very late, yet finished with a scarcely noticeable 12.5% alcohol. Iris and heliotrope in the nose entice one to experience a creamy, buoyant, palate brimming with fresh apple and tinged with alkaline and stony notes that follow into a juicy finish. The sense of flowers wafting above stone is quite uncanny, and this is a wine to linger over lest you mistake its relatively quiet personality for failure to communicate something profoundly delicious. I would expect this to be worth following for at least a dozen years, Selbachs’ being among the most reliable performers among legally dry Mosel Rieslings. I did not taste the corresponding Kabinett, which was still winding up fermentation last September. “The autumn was super, with little stress,” remarked Johannes Selbach, who is more often seen furrowing his exceedingly high brow when describing even a highly successful harvest! What there was of botrytis, he reports, came late, and he reported that what rain there was in November was of negligible significance. Where many 2009 collections disappointed slightly as they reached the limits of possible vintage Oechsle, the Selbach-Oster collection proceeded from strength to profound strength. Most of the wines were bottled in May, but some of the dry and nobly sweet lots were very late even to finish fermenting and a few had not yet been bottled even when I tasted in September. True to an intention he stated last year, Selbach has bottled without Pradikat the fruits of block-pickings from his three top parcels, each named on its label. (For more about the principles involved, consult in particular my note on the 2005 “Schmitt” Auslese – in issue 169 – and that on this year’s dry “Schmitt” Spatlese below.) This year’s collection continues the trend for wines from Zeltingen’s Schlossberg to shine with special complexity and elegance after the many years in which they seemed destined at this address to take a back seat to those of Sonnenuhr. Not only were the vineyards of Zeltingen among the most celebrated on the Mosel during the 19th and early 20th century, but Karl Heinrich Koch epochal survey of 1881 places the Schlossberg as among the Mosel, Saar, and Ruwer’s top 11 sites, and one can appreciate this while savoring a wine like this year’s “Schmitt” trocken.Importers: There are a few regional importers of certain Selbach wines, but the majority (and those whose prices are noted above) are Terry Theise Estate Selections, imported by Michael Skurnik Wines, Inc., Syosset, NY; tel. (516) 677-9300