Smoke, minerals, cured meats and ash flow from the 2006 Falanghina Via del Campo. This is easily one of the most intriguing and exotic whites I have tasted in a very long time. The layered quality of the fruit and the wine's length brings to mind a great Meursault, yet the flavor profile is eerily similar to that of a noble Aglianico. This is another superb wine from Luigi Moio. Anticipated maturity: 2009-2012.
Luigi Moio is one of the leaders in the renaissance of Campanian oenology. Moio's impressive resume includes stints in France, where he completed his doctorate, and his current position at the University of Naples, where he serves as professor of oenology. Moio is expertly schooled in the viticultural and winemaking techniques of Bordeaux and Burgundy, which gives him a level of perspective that is rare in Italy, let alone Campania. His consulting practice includes the early days of Feudi di San Gregorio and current projects with leading producers such as Caggiano, Cantina del Taburno and Terre del Principe. In 2001 Moio began planting vineyards with the goal of making his own wines, and these first releases are truly exceptional. Quintodecimo is quickly establishing itself as one the region's top estates. This is a winery readers will want to keep an eye on. Unfortunately I wasn't able to taste any of the estate's Taurasis, but the wines I did taste were simply awesome!
Importer: Omniwines Distributing Co., Flushing, New York 11354, www.omniwines.com, 718-353-8700
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