With this bracing, bone-dry, crisply mineral white wine, Abacela continues to prove that southern Oregon is really the westernmost province of Spain. If this isn’t the perfect oyster wine, I don’t know what is. Like a great Muscadet, it’s clean, acidic and bracing but never thin or sour. Wonderful winemaking. ——P.G.(12/1/2006)—— 89