A sturdy, substantial, Rhone-inspired red. The goofy name? The winery says it refers to a Celtic people inhabiting the Rhone Valley in the days of the Roman empire. This is tasty juice, tangy and spicy, with sharp pine and herb accents, underscored with wild berry and plenty of acid. The Celts would buy it by the case.——P.G.(8/1/2009)—— 88