Tannins weigh this Syrah down, making it toughly astringent, a wine that makes your mouth pucker. Through all that, you can taste the massive flavors of black currants, red licorice, violets, cloves and peppery grilled veal that are pure, dry and profound. Is it an ager? The pedigree suggests yes. The wine is a blend of the Caldwell, Stagecoach and Hyde-Oak Knoll vineyards. Stash it through mid-2009, if not longer. ——S.H.(11/1/2008)—— 91