Conterno Ginestra Riserva, Barolo DOCG, Italy

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The 2003 Barolo Riserva Ginestra is a big, powerful wine built on an intense core of fruit. As is typical of hot vintages, the wine’s aromatics are somewhat suppressed in favor of the fruit but the wine nevertheless comes across as beautifully balanced. The tannins are broad yet very nicely integrated. Although I am not a big fan of Riservas in 2003, Ginestra is one of the few vineyards that always maintains quite a bit of acidity and therefore freshness. This Barolo is truly gorgeous. Roasted coffee beans, worn-in leather, and cedar waft from the empty glass. Anticipated maturity: 2013-2023. There is a purity to proprietor Giorgio Conterno’s wines that I find incredibly appealing. These three Barolos are essentially different selections, all from the Ginestra vineyard in Monforte. Fermentation takes place using the traditional submerged cap method, after which the Barolos are aged in large, neutral French oak barrels, an approach that works beautifully with the intensely spiced and aromatic Ginestra fruit.Importer: Artisan Wine, Norwalk, CT; tel. (203) 866-4552