The 2004 Scharzhofberger Riesling Auslese Gold Capsule “Fuder #19” A.P.#47 represents a botrytis selection, even though its efficacious acids might lead you to suspect Eiswein origins. Smoky peach jam aromas lead to a dense, creamy, yet also salty and bright palate, where luscious citrus including penetrating lemon, cut through the creaminess and set up a striking juxtaposition. You can’t call this “knitted” right now, and in the finish it charges off blazingly bright in its uppity acidity on the one hand and at the same time pursues a creamy rather turgidly ennobled direction. What seems to be lacking is a bit of a middle range or the juiciness that helped make its two Scharzhofberger predecessors exceptional. Importer: P. J. Valckenberg International, Tulsa, OK; tel. (918) 622-0424.
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