The deeply-colored 1990 Pommard-Les Rugiens is medium to full-bodied and tannic, but the nose offers mostly aromas of new oak, earth, and black fruits. The wine is weighty on the palate, with excellent ripeness, but the huge tannins in the finish suggest a 5-6 year wait is warranted. Anticipated maturity: 1997-2007. Readers who admire intensely concentrated, big, tannic, oaky wines will probably rate Bouley's 1990s higher. He is aiming for maximum extraction as well as a gutsy style of Pinot Noir, perhaps at the expense of charm and finesse. A Christopher Cannan Selection, Europvin - various importers.
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