This attractive white's dry mineral-herb nose, round, full feel and tasty pear-spice flavors add up to a winner. Yet another very credible psuedo-Rhone Capester from Charles Back and the Fairview crew. French authorities should lighten up on their (serious) case against his harmless, tongue-in-cheek name, while Rhone winemakers ought to note it as an homage and laud Back's good work with their native grapes.——M.M.(4/1/2005)—— 87