Muller-Catoir Haardter Weissburgunder Kabinett Trocken, Pfalz, Germany

卡托爾哈爾特白皮諾干型小房酒

點擊次數(shù)：2414

The Muller-Catoir 2009 Haardter Weissburgunder Kabinett trocken adds additional creaminess to that displayed by the corresponding generic bottling, yet there are also clarity and juiciness, with a shimmering underlying sense of saline, chalky, and crystalline mineral notes. Green tea and fresh celery convey a metaphorically cooling aspect, and even at 12.5% alcohol this is almost delicately buoyant. Less effusive, transparent, or striking than its generic counterpart, I’d just give this a bit of time. It should hold well for 4-6 years if not longer. “Despite sporadic rain at harvest time,” notes Martin Franzen about the 2009 harvest, “cool weather kept botrytis completely at bay. Frankly,” he adds, “it was hard to make disappointing wine with raw materials of this caliber.” But it was also impossible to achieve nobly sweet results save from Rieslaner, with its notorious penchant for spontaneous desiccation even in the absence of botrytis. This is the first vintage, incidentally, for which this estate has claimed organic bona fides, and Franzen – even if predictably – claims to find additional depth in his wines thanks to that conversion. (Not that this estate has ever been anything but entirely circumspect in any use of herbicides or pesticides.)Importer: Terry Theise Estate Selections, imported by Michael Skurnik Wines, Inc., Syosset, NY; tel. (516) 677-9300