Morlet Family Vineyards Joli Coeur Pinot Noir, Sonoma Coast, USA

莫萊克爾黑皮諾干紅葡萄酒

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The 2010 Pinot Noir Joli Coeur comes across as rather implosive. Currently the wine is holding back much of its ultimate potential. Layers of fruit flow gracefully towards the textured, inviting finish. Sweet floral notes, mint, spices and succulent black cherries frame the close. The Joli Coeur is made from a parcel within the Coteaux Nobles where the vines produce smaller berries than in the rest of the site. Anticipated maturity: 2014-2020. I was quite frankly amazed by the range of wines I tasted with Luc Morlet. The wines span everything from single-variety Chardonnays, Pinots and Syrahs to Bordeaux-inspired blends. La Proportion Doree is a Semillon/Sauvignon Blanc blend with a dash of Muscadelle. Morlet’s Billet Doux is a late-harvest version of that wine, but with fruit just from Alexander Valley. Passionnement is Cabernet Sauvignon from vineyards in Oakville, while Coeur de Vallee is Cabernet Sauvignon and Cabernet Franc, also from Oakville. Mon Chevalier is a Bordeaux-style blend made from vineyards in Knights Valley. Morlet Estate, 100% Cabernet Sauvignon from St. Helena, is the newest wine in the lineup.Tel. (707) 967-8690; www.morletwines.com

The 2010 Pinot Noir Joli Coeur is a deep, implosive wine. Firm tannins provide the backbone for this structured, intense Pinot. Black cherry, hard candy, violets, tar and licorice flow through to the intense finish. Anticipated maturity: 2015-2025. Luc Morlet must surely have one of the broadest portfolios in California between the wines he makes under his own labels and for his consulting clients. There are a lot of beautiful wines in this range, although I have to admit, I tend to prefer the wines Morlet makes in Napa Valley over those from Sonoma. I have a slight preference for the 2011 Chardonnays over the 2010s, as I find the more recent vintage a touch more refined. In addition to these wines, I also tasted all of the 2011 Pinots, but found them in an awkward, raw state that is not unusual for young wines from this cold and very late harvest. Tel. (707) 967-8690