The 2004 Erbacher Marcobrunn Riesling Erstes Gewachs displays a heady aroma of decadently overripe pit fruits, then takes a startlingly sharp turn on the palate into lemony brightness laced with salt and peach kernel. Overripe peach returns in the finish along with nutty low tones and a persistent overlay of citrus. This is a well-concentrated and fascinating – somewhat spare and decidedly bifurcated – Riesling from Gerko Knyphausen’s tiny portion of a legendary site, and I am inclined to give it the benefit of the doubt. Still, I would have been more at ease with a thoroughly convincing grand cru performance by both of this year’s Knyphausen Grosses Gewachs entries. Importer: P. J. Valckenberg International, Tulsa, OK; tel. (918) 622-0424