Weingut Forstmeister Geltz-Zilliken Ockfener Bockstein Riesling Kabinett, Mosel, Germany

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Zilliken’s 2004 Ockfener Bockstein Riesling Kabinett offers arguably simple but ravishingly generous and juicy salted apple flavors and manages to make 54 grams of residual sugar virtually disappear. (Zilliken points to 2004’s unusually high levels of dry extract as well as efficacious tartaric acidity to explain this uncanny buffering of sweetness.) The delicate yet intense finish of apple, apple skin, lemon, and slate is archetypal Bockstein. Importer: Rudi Wiest, Cellars International, Carlsbad, CA; tel. (800) 596-9463