Weingut Josef Schmid Sunogeln Reserve Riesling, Kremstal, Austria

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The 2007 Riesling Sunogeln – from a gravel and eroded Urgestein site in Stratzing, and one of several Schmid wines bottled under the promotional “Priorissa” label shared with a group of Kremstal vintners – smells of apple blossom, sweet clover, and marjoram; displays clear, refreshing apple, peach, and citrus fruit with pungent herbal and crushed stone accents on an oily palate; and finishes with orange zest and honey adding to its ripe assortment of flavors. A bottle open for nearly three days was still fresh and expressive. This will be released this year, and should be worth holding for at least 4-5. Josef Schmid – son of the eponymous Schmid for whom the winery is named – did not score quite the number of successes this year that had come to my attention from 2006. But visiting with him made clear the passion with which he is pursuing quality, and which is resulting in some excellent values. Nearly all of the 2007s here were rather tight and reductive last summer, so they may well all benefit short term from time in bottle.Importer: Weygandt-Metzler Importing, Unionville, PA; tel. (610) 486-0800