Peter Jacob Kuhn Oestricher Lenchen Riesling Trockenbeerenauslese, Rheingau, Germany

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Bright lemon, buckwheat, truffle, and pungent lavender in the nose of Kuhn’s 2010 Oestricher Lenchen Riesling Trockenbeerenauslese are joined by orange blossom honey that, along with juicy lemon and grapefruit, saturate and stimulate the palate. Truffle oil and nut cream add to the rich, seductive impression, and the finish is somehow adorably cuddly as well as uncannily buoyant, and displays its citrus entirely as luscious juiciness, yet with no sense of sharpness. The balance between 18 grams of acidity and huge residual sugar seems somehow perfect, neither getting the upper hand; and the finish prodigious. Look for at least 40 years of profound pleasure. Biodynamic’ practitioner and proselytizer Peter Jakob Kuhn –– realizing that I would well understand –– remained too preoccupied with the consequences of rain falling on his nearly ripe bunches last September 19 to spend much time with me. But his wife Angela explained that they indulged in some de-acidification of musts with calcium carbonate (as in 1994, too), simply to guarantee the malo-lactic transformation that is understood for dry wines at this address (and is itself both a price of long elevage intended to reach absolute dryness, and a condition for where possible bottling with minimal or no filtration and low sulfur). The top dry Rieslings had all just been bottled two weeks before my visit.Imported by Sussex Wine Merchants, Moorestown, NJ; tel. (856) 608 9644; also imported by Domaine Select Wine Estates, New York, NY; tel. (212) 279-0799