At only 7% alcohol, Vollenweider's 2008 Wolfer Goldgrube Riesling Kabinett is predictably high in residual sugar. But the ultra-bright character of the vintage at this address renders the sweetness only moderate and highly supportive of the lime, kiwi, and green plum flavors, while the low alcohol helps render the wine almost weightless. Suggestions of mint and lavender combine with lime peel for a pungent, invigorating, and tactile finish perfectly balanced by sweetness. Wire this properly and it seems as though it should turn on a light bulb. I can't wait to see what happens over the next decade when (or is that -if-?) this settles down. Half of this wine, incidentally, was bottled as A.P. #1 with cork closure and half as A.P. #2 with screwcap. Given the premium Daniel Vollenweider puts on delicacy and vivacity as hallmarks of Middle Mosel Riesling, it is easy to see why he is pleased with the character of his 2008s, although in the dry echelons these wines are apt to strike many tasters as too marked by their acidity.Importers include Vineyard Research, Inc., Lunenburg, MA; tel. 617 686 8052; Ewald Moseler Selections, Portland OR; tel. 888 274 4312; A Bill Mayer Age of Riesling Selection Imported by Valley View Wine Sales, Glen Ellen, CA; tel. (510) 549 2444