The old vines bottling blends grapes from the Champoux and Sagemoor vineyards, from vines dating to the mid-1970s. This is a showstopper, thick, chocolatey and densely packed with red and black berries, smoke, cedar, anise and chocolate. It’s a full-throttle wine that will require extra breathing time. Delicious now, or cellar it for another decade. Editors’ Choice. ——P.G.(6/1/2002)—— 91