This gets the full-blown barrel treatment (fermented and aged in French oak, lees-stirring, full malolactic fermentation), and it shows rather more than the fruit. Buttery, richly textured and spice-scented (clove and cinnamon), with only modest levels of yellow fruit flavors that include hints of pineapple and Golden Delicious.——W.E.(1/1/2004)—— 87