No fruit having come in below high-grade Spatlese must weight, Zilliken sacrificed only a small amount of raw material to inform a 2005 Riesling trocken. This wine is mineral from the word “go”, with wet stone aromatics, stony inflections to the wines juicy, cidery apple and cherry fruited palate, and a finish with palpable extract. More formidable than charming, it should prove versatile at the dinner table and gain in interest over the next couple of years. Also recommended: 2005 Riesling ($16.00; 85+?).Importer: Rudi Wiest, Cellars International, Carlsbad, CA; tel. 800-596-9463
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