Impresses for the body and depth that lifts it into sheer deliciousness. A powerful wine, it’s stuffed with pure flavors of black cherries, currants, beef jerky and spicy mu shu plum sauce, all wrapped into thick but finely ground tannins, and brightened with crisp coastal acidity. Beautiful now, and should develop over the next 6 years.——S.H.(9/1/2008)—— 93