The 2005 Rosso Piceno Superiore Roggio del Filare opens with warm, toasty aromas that recall sweet cinnamon rolls baking in the oven. This spiced, jammy red reveals lovely finesse and silky tannins, but a touch less oak might allow the appealing vibrancy of the fruit to shine through with even more clarity. This is another gorgeous red from Velenosi. Anticipated maturity: 2010-2015. These are the finest wines I have tasted from Velenosi, an emerging producer in the Marche that is very close to making a huge jump in the overall quality of their wines. Each bottle has a different look in terms of its label, and the estate could certainly consider a more consistent look for its packaging, which would make it easier for consumers and the trade to keep track of these wines. Importer: Domaine Select, New York, NY; tel. (212) 279-0799

Dense concentration and oak-driven aromas of spice, blackberry, chocolate fudge and espresso open this thick Montepulciano (70%) and Sangiovese blend (packaged in an equally imposing and heavy glass bottle). The wine is plush, dense, sweet and would pair with roast pork and broad beans.——M.L.(9/1/2009)—— 90