Cedric Bouchard Roses de Jeanne Rose de Saignee Le Creux d’Enfer, Champagne, France

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The NV (2006) Roses de Jeanne Rose Le Creux d’Enfer is a breathtaking, utterly profound wine of epic dimensions. Smoke, minerals, chalk and bacon fat are some of the nuances that develop in the glass, adding endless layers of complexity to the intensely perfumed fruit. The 2006 is a powerful, imposing Creux d’Enfer that ideally needs a few more years in bottle, although I suspect most of the 480 bottles produced will long have been enjoyed before the wine enters its peak drinking window. A recent bottle of the 2002 was fabulous. Readers who are fortunate to find the Creux d’Enfer will be treated to a thrilling, unforgettable drinking experience. The Creux D’Enfer is 100% Pinot Noir crushed by foot, fermented with ambient yeasts and bottled unfined, unfiltered and with no dosage. It is as pure a wine as exists on Planet Earth. Disgorged April, 2010. Anticipated maturity: 2014-2026. Once again, I was blown away by the wines I tasted from Cedric Bouchard. What else is new? My visit to the property earlier in the year was a revelatory experience. I got a little lost navigating my way through the sleepy village of Celles-sur-Ource, but when I happened along a meticulous, obsessively tended vineyard I knew I was close to the cellar. As exceptional as the young wines were, I was most struck by the capacity of these Champagnes to develop complexity in bottle. The 2004 Haute-Lemblee, which I scored 97 points two years ago, is living up to all of its promise, while the 2002 Creux d’Enfer, a wine I reviewed in my recent profile on Bouchard on www.erobertparker.com, left me speechless. Readers seeking to discover the finest in Champagne owe it to themselves to check out the wines of Cedric Bouchard. Minuscule yields, organically farmed old-vine parcels, a non-interventionalist approach in the winery and cellar and Bouchard’s inspired vision elevate these single-vintage, lieu-dit wines to the summit of Champagne. The wines are bottled unfined, unfiltered and with no dosage, leaving only the indelible stamp of vintage, vineyard and grape variety as interpreted by this immensely gifted vigneron. For what it is worth, these are some of the most treasured bottles I own.A Thomas Calder Selection, imported by Polaner Selections, Mt. Kisco, NY; tel. (914) 244-0404