Tradition is Gordon Brothers’ top red, a blend of Merlot and Cabernet from the estate vineyard’s best vines. It is given extra cellar time, which gives the sweet cherry fruit flavors the opportunity to meld, while smoothing the rougher, somewhat green tannins. This is a wine that could certainly be cellared for another five or six years; it is structured like a Bordeaux, and does not try to hide its earthy, herbal side. Nor should it; the stuffing is there for a beautiful wine to emerge in another half decade or so.——P.G.(11/1/2008)—— 90
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