Lamy's 2010 Saint-Aubin 1er Cru Clos de la Chatenière opens in the glass with aromas of citrus oil, crisp green apple and fresh bread, with hints of candied tropical fruit and barley sugar emerging with extended aeration. Medium to full-bodied, satiny and incisive, it's beautifully pure and mineral-driven, with a racy but ripe spine of acidity and a long, delicately exotic finish. Make no mistake, this is still a young wine, and it showed more of its cards when I finished the bottle a day later than it did immediately after opening.
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