Vinified in large ovals and entirely ripe in flavors at 13% alcohol, Velich’s basic 2004 Blaufrankisch Burgenland offers a tart, tight, yet lusciously ripe blackberry character such as I cannot remember tasting before in Austria – or anywhere else. Lean and lithe yet juicy and berry-ripe, with subtle shadings of white pepper and spice, sappy, bright and penetrating, this is Blaufrankisch in a whole new key. Rolland Velich is no longer working with his brother Heinz at the family estate in Apetlon, but is pursuing his own dream, working with old vines in the heart of “Blaufrankisch country” – Mittelburgenland, specifically Lutzmannsburg and Neckenmark. (Only his winery is located in Grosshoflein.) His are wines in a style you will not encounter anywhere else in Austria: Blaufrankisch vinified as if it were Grand Cru Burgundy, and from hillsides (including terraces) and pre-clonal vines the like of which you will not find being cultivated in most of Mittelburgenland. One sip is an Oz experience (and I don’t mean Aussie, mates!). From his dreams, to his vines, to his vinification, to his retro label, Velich is in a world of his own. He calls his project “Blaufrankisch Unplugged” (and Moric – the derivation of which I shall explain another time – is pronounced like “Moritz”).Importer pending.
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