Weingut Emmerich Knoll Ried Loibenberg Riesling Smaragd, Wachau, Austria

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The 2005 Riesling Smaragd Loibenberg offers high-toned distilled berry aromas laced with oregano and mint. On the palate, its mineral and herb core is sleek and firm, yet wrapped in a sweetly rich (presumably loess-engendered) envelope of peach and blueberry. Also recommended: 2005 Gruner Veltliner Federspiel ($22.00; 86), 2005 Riesling Pfaffenberg Kabinett (not available; 86).Importer: Vin Divino, Chicago, IL; tel. (773) 334-6700

Knoll’s wines tend to be delicate, expressing terroir rather than power. This is certainly the case with this crisp, clean, very fresh and green wine. It’s young, of course, and like other Knoll wines should age well. ——R.V.(10/1/2006)—— 91