The 2006 Fiano di Avellino Exultet is one of the more intense, honeyed Fianos readers are likely to come across. The wine reveals a deep yellow hue along with generous notes of acacia, sage, rosemary, cantaloupe, all of which are woven together in a rich fabric of notable depth. This full-bodied Fiano possesses gorgeous length and terrific overall balance. Fiano is a late-maturing variety, and this offering shows hints of inner sweetness that are compelling. This is a very serious Fiano that needs to be paired with similarly rich dishes to bring out the full breadth of its expression. It's hard to believe, but these vines, in Lapio, were only planted in 2004. Anticipated maturity: 2009-2016.
Luigi Moio is one of the leaders in the renaissance of Campanian oenology. Moio's impressive resume includes stints in France, where he completed his doctorate, and his current position at the University of Naples, where he serves as professor of oenology. Moio is expertly schooled in the viticultural and winemaking techniques of Bordeaux and Burgundy, which gives him a level of perspective that is rare in Italy, let alone Campania. His consulting practice includes the early days of Feudi di San Gregorio and current projects with leading producers such as Caggiano, Cantina del Taburno and Terre del Principe. In 2001 Moio began planting vineyards with the goal of making his own wines, and these first releases are truly exceptional. Quintodecimo is quickly establishing itself as one the region's top estates. This is a winery readers will want to keep an eye on. Unfortunately I wasn't able to taste any of the estate's Taurasis, but the wines I did taste were simply awesome!
Importer: Omniwines Distributing Co., Flushing, New York 11354, www.omniwines.com, 718-353-8700
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