Weingut Emrich-Schonleber Monzinger Halenberg Riesling Auslese, Nahe, Germany

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The Schonleber 2007 Monzinger Halenberg Riesling Auslese shows a metaphorically cooler, more northerly personality – based on apple and pear – than the corresponding Fruhlingsplatzchen, and with less obvious botrytis, although hints of caramel appear here, too. The Halenberg is yet creamier and quite sedate, with subtle suggestions of lime and sea water in its long finish. I concur with Werner Schonleber both that this Halenberg is the more compact and backward of the two Auslesen, as well as that the sites exhibit here a sort of role-reversal, with Fruhlingsplatzchen taking the early lead in dynamism and complexity. Either will be worth 20 years of observation. To say that Werner and son Frank Schonleber have been on a roll lately must count as an understatement (and that applies to 2008, too). Two heads are better than one, no doubt, plus the advantages of accumulated wisdom and acreage – the family is filling-in what was once a decidedly, in places depressingly patchy landscape by buying up prime parcels from retiring vintners – are obvious. The Schonlebers went over their vineyards in early October to pull out some botrytis that had already accumulated and to thin their crop, and began seriously harvesting Riesling after the 10th. The estate’s vines were largely spared savage but capricious hail that rained down on parts of the Fruhlingsplatzchen. Werner Schonleber draws a stylistic comparison with the 2002 vintage, which he convincingly demonstrated with several bottles.Imported by Sussex Wine Merchants, Moorestown, NJ; tel. (856) 608 9644; also imported by Dee Vine Wines, San Francisco, CA tel. (877) 389- 9463

Spring flowers and candied citrus notes are framed by a juicy texture and bright acidity. Light-bodied and fresh, this is crisp and long on the finish. Very elegant and harmonious. Drink now through 2032. 120 cases made.??–BS??Region: Germany / Nahe Select to Add