Trutina, Dunham’s Bordeaux blend, has long been the value wine in the Walla Walla superstar’s portfolio. The 2004 is no exception, a seamless, silk-on-steel compendium of Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon. The wild card in ’04 is the addition of 3% Syrah. It opens the wine up a bit, adding some spice and mint to the sweet cherry Merlot fruit. There’s also an interesting grace note reminiscent of caraway cutting through. ——P.G.(5/1/2007)—— 91
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