The 2017 Savigny-lès-Beaune 1er Cru Aux Fournaux is one of the weaker links in the portfolio this year, its rich bouquet of red fruits and creamy new oak introducing a succulent but open-knit, somewhat facile wine. Since this cuvée is routinely superb, either I caught it on a bad day or the vines, frosted in 2016, simply gave too generous a crop in 2017 to deliver the depth and concentration one expects from this address.
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