Weingut Kerpen Wehlener Sonnenuhr Riesling Spatlese Trocken Alte Reben, Mosel, Germany

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A Kerpen 2009 Wehlener Sonnenuhr Riesling Spatlese trocken Alte Reben – from two ideally-situated parcels with old vines – smells of ripe peach with pungent overtones of peat and brown spices, suggesting a hint of botrytis. It’s lush on the palate, with salt, crushed stone, toasted nuts, peat, and the bitter side of the vanilla bean all contributing to a low-toned, long finish. There is no warmth from the wine’s 13% alcohol, but neither is there the elegance or refreshment that characterizes Kerpen’s trocken bottlings at their best. I’d plan to drink it over the next 3-4 years. Martin Kerpen’s 2009 collection Rieslings possess uncommon brightness for their vintage, and he continues to excel across a blessedly broad stylistic range, from legally trocken through nobly sweet – and, more importantly, with plenty of successful stops in-between. It’s worth noting that Kerpen is especially keen on the quality of his nobly sweet 2009s – wines that are certainly close to off-the-charts on paper – although as readers can see, my praise for them is more selective.Importer: Terry Theise Estate Selections, imported by Michael Skurnik Wines, Inc., Syosset, NY; tel. (516) 677-9300