The superlative 1998 Gewurztraminer Rangen de Thann Clos St. Urbain Vendange Tardive has the amber/gold color of a Selection de Grains Nobles. In the nose, candied oranges, botrytis, red berries, and earth compete for the taster's olfactory attention. A hedonist's delight, this full-bodied, decadently viscous offering is also refreshing to taste. The mouth-feel is tantamount to millions of tiny puffy pillows filled with caramel, cocoa, minerals, candied citrus fruit zests, and lemony stones. Seductive, intricate, and profound, it does not reflect any of its varietal's trademark lychee, rose water, floral scents and flavors. It represents, according to Olivier Humbrecht, "the pure essence of the Rangen terroir." Project maturity: 2004-2018+. Importer: Kermit Lynch Wine Merchant, Berkeley, CA; tel (510) 524-1524.