The 2017 Chevalier-Montrachet Grand Cru is immensely promising, unfurling in the glass with an appropriately reserved nose of lemon oil, candle wax, white currants, toasted bread and dried spring flowers. On the palate, the wine is full-bodied, deep and layered with a satiny attack, excellent concentration at the core and a long, expansive finish. This must number among the best kept secrets in grand cru white Burgundy, and I encourage readers to seek it out.
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