Tasted blind, Jean-Michel Chartron's 2015 Chevalier-Montrachet Clos des Chevaliers Grand Cru put in a brilliant showing, unfurling in the glass with a classy bouquet of green apple, citrus oil and crushed chalk, subtly framed by a judicious touch of new oak and smoky reduction. On the palate, the wine is full-bodied, deep and layered, with a satiny attack, fabulous concentration and intensity and racy balancing acids. This is a brilliant Chevalier-Montrachet that ranks as one of the white wines of the vintage.
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