I was very impressed with Castello di Neive's 2003 Barbaresco Riserva Santo Stefano, a wine that makes an eloquent case for being among the finest wines of the vintage. This big, fat Barbaresco is loaded with super-ripe dark fruit that caresses the palate with remarkable depth. Notes of leather, spices and toasted oak gradually emerge to complete this very pretty wine. I don't expect the 2003 Riserva Santo Stefano to be terribly long-lived, but it does offer terrific balance, especially in the tannins, which avoid the greenness that is so typical in this challenging vintage. It is a commendable effort. Anticipated maturity: 2009-2018.
Castello di Neive continues to make gorgeous wines under the direction of proprietor Italo Stupino.
Importers: Bacchanal Wine Imports, Inc., New York, NY; tel. (646) 207-0115; Grassroots Wine Wholesalers, LLC; Birmingham, AL; tel. (205) 250-9060; Vintage Selections, Cape Canaveral, FL; tel. (321) 783-2700; West Park Imports, Sharon Hill PA; tel. (610) 532-3039; Castello di Neive MHW Ltd, Manhasset, NY; tel. (516) 869-9170