The 2004 Barolo San Rocco, from a vineyard in Serralunga, is an explosive, structured wine bursting with black cherries, violets, menthol and tar. Full-bodied and ample on the palate, it possesses outstanding balance and an utterly engaging personality that makes it an absolute joy to taste. The San Rocco is always the most complete of the Azelia Barolos, and it is a wine I seek out in nearly every vintage. A recent bottle of the 2003 was also superb. Anticipated maturity: 2009-2024. Readers looking for a first-rate Barolo producer whose pricing has remained very fair need look no further than the wines of Azelia and proprietor Luigi Scavino. These are among my favorite wines to drink, especially in restaurants, where they don’t suffer from the larger markups that accompany some of the region’s better known bottlings. A Marc de Grazia Selection, various American importers, including Michael Skurnik, Syosset, NY; tel. (516) 677-9300, Vin Divino, Chicago, IL; tel. (773) 334-6700, and Estate Wines, Ltd., San Rafael, CA; tel. (415) 492-9411

The 2004 Barolo San Rocco, from a vineyard in Serralunga, is an explosive, structured wine bursting with black cherries, violets, menthol and tar. Full-bodied and ample on the palate, it possesses outstanding balance and an utterly engaging personality that makes it an absolute joy to taste. The San Rocco is always the most complete of the Azelia Barolos, and it is a wine I seek out in nearly every vintage. A recent bottle of the 2003 was also superb. Anticipated maturity: 2009-2024. Readers looking for a first-rate Barolo producer whose pricing has remained very fair need look no further than the wines of Azelia and proprietor Luigi Scavino. These are among my favorite wines to drink, especially in restaurants, where they don’t suffer from the larger markups that accompany some of the region’s better known bottlings.A Marc de Grazia Selection, various American importers, including Michael Skurnik, Syosset, NY; tel. (516) 677-9300, Vin Divino, Chicago, IL; tel. (773) 334-6700, and Estate Wines, Ltd., San Rafael, CA; tel. (415) 492-9411

Intense aromas of blackberry and violet turn to Spanish cedar and tar. Full and chewy, with lots of racy tannins. Long and very pretty. Wonderfully polished. Best after 2011. 560 cases made, 390 cases imported.??–JS??Region: Italy / Piedmont / Barolo Select to Add

Subtle oak, violet and plum nose. Intensely fruity, good, warm, nice integration, needs time. Powerful structure.