Bouchard's 1990 Chevalier-Montrachet Grand Cru is at the peak of its powers today, unfurling in the glass with scents of warm pastry, yellow orchard fruit, toasted almonds, clear honey and hazelnuts. Medium to full-bodied, satiny and incisive, its bright spine of acidity is cloaked in a generous core of fruit. This is a seamless, immensely charming Chevalier.