Weingut Leo Alzinger Loibner Loibenberg Gruner Veltliner Smaragd, Wachau, Austria

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Due to have been bottled in July, the Alzinger 2010 Gruner Veltliner Smaragd Loibenberg is intriguingly-scented with toasted almond and caraway, along with sweet pea and intimations of fresh lime; white peach and purple plum, which then expand succulently on the palate. A bite of white pepper and piquant, smoky hint of Latakia tobacco lend counterpoint to the long, luscious, deeply savory, prominently citric finish of a Gruner Veltliner that could well be mistaken for great Riesling. I suspect this beauty will be worth following for at least 12-15 years. The Alzingers didn’t begin harvesting until the third week of October in 2010 and continued until November 18. Riesling Federspiel alone was de-acidified (as must). Leo Alzinger senior confirmed the judgment of other Wachau veterans that there was no known precedent for the combination of high acidity; sugar; and extract with genuine phenolic ripeness and next to no botrytis. (Somehow I missed out, incidentally, on tasting this year’s Liebenberg Riesling Smaragd.)Importer: Terry Theise Estate Selections, imported by Michael Skurnik Wines, Inc., Syosset, NY; tel. (516) 677-9300

The Alzinger 2007 Gruner Veltliner Smaragd Loibenberg smells ravishingly of fresh green beans, beetroot, snap pea narcissus, iris, and white pepper. The sense of sheer extract sweetness (as opposed to residual sugar) on the plate is formidable. With finesse and penetration of succulent legume, melon, and citrus fruit flavors, this sleek, elegant, buoyant, yet formidably concentrated Gruner Veltliner lays down a line of mysteriously mineral “stuff” you will seek in vain to lick from your lips and palate. I have never thought of it that way, but here the metaphor of the local cliff-dwelling lizards (Smaragde) fits their iridescence, sleekness and fleetness as well. Plan on following some of this for at least ten or a dozen years. Leo Alzinger senior’s lucid account of the 2007 vintage can be found in the general introduction to this report. After the extraordinary collection that he and his son, Leo, fielded from 2006, its successor – while different in personality – did not disappoint one bit. (I don’t know whether this was punishment for past sins, but I am sorry to have to report that your correspondent was not offered an opportunity to taste Riesling Smaragd bottlings from Liebenberg and Hohereck.)Importer: Terry Theise Estate Selections, imported by Michael Skurnik Wines, Inc., Syosset, NY; tel. (516) 677-9300