Behrens & Hitchcock Cuvee Lola, Napa Valley, USA

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The brilliant 2001 Cuvee Lola (sadly, there are only 214 cases of this 75% Cabernet Franc, 10% Merlot, 10% Cabernet Sauvignon, and 5% Petite Sirah blend) is what Bordeaux’s famed Cheval Blanc might taste like if it were a dry vintage port. This is a totally dry wine, but the glycerin levels are off the charts (give credit to the 16.1% natural alcohol). Inky/purple, with a gorgeous floral, blueberry, graphite, and smoky scented perfume, this spectacular, unctuously textured 2001 is an extraordinary expression of Cabernet Franc. I didn’t ask Les Behrens or Bob Hitchcock where they got the Cabernet Franc, but my guess would be somewhere near heaven. This wine should drink well for 10-15 years, but only a fool would allow it to sit unconsumed that long. Amazing! I admire what Les Behrens, Bob Hitchcock, their wives, friends, and lunatic dog are doing at their winery and cellars on the top of Spring Mountain. They are obsessed fanatics who make wine with no compromises ... obviously my kind of people.Tel. 707-963-1774; Fax 707-963-8206

The 2000 Cuvee Lola (a blend of 75% Cabernet Franc, 20% Merlot, and 5% Petit Verdot) is one of the vintage's superstars. It is thick and juicy, with great fruit, fabulously complex aromas (Asian spices, coffee, chocolate, black cherries, blackberries, and cassis), and a dense, vibrant (because of the high percentage of Cabernet Franc) personality, it gracefully conceals its 14.5% alcohol. Sadly, there are only 250 cases. My apologies to Bob Hitchcock and Les Behrens for writing a year and a half ago that this wine was named after their dead cat (that's the Ode to Picasso). As they reminded me, the Cuvee Lola honors "a live daughter." It should drink beautifully upon release, and over the following decade. (Price not yet determined, release date 11/02)Tel. 707-963-1774; Fax 707-963-8206