Campolargo Cercial

點(diǎn)擊次數(shù)：2547

The 2010 CERCIAL, if you’re looking at it on a shelf, isn’t so clearly labeled. Perhaps it should just be called a branco, but the front label doesn’t have much to say regarding what it is. The back label, however, makes it clear, at least if you squint and read carefully, that this round shouldered bottle is an unusual monovarietal, all (used) oak-fermented Cercial. This small production wine (145 cases produced) comes at a significant uptick in price, one of the few wines in the lineup that doesn’t offer some value, no doubt because of its tiny production. I liked the Arinto just slightly more, actually, although reasonable minds might differ there. This is pretty nice in its own right, though. Ignoring the price/quality equation, it is a nicely constructed offering from Campolargo, with bright acidity and a certain lemony note cutting through the oak. Like the Arinto, it shows its oak a bit too much at the moment, but this is more elegant, a less brooding wine, although its power shows on the finish as the oak aging catches up to the fruit. This should develop pretty nicely over the next few years. Drink now-2015. Campolargo is an interesting winery in Bairrada that presents a less traditional face with its various small production bottlings. Manuel Campolargo makes things that are a bit different than the usual fare—Sauvignon Blanc, Pinot Noir, Bordeaux blends, unusual monovarietals and the like. Modern Bairrada isn’t just about Baga—although they make one of those, too. The wines often provide some nice value, as evidenced by some of the offerings this issue, and the off-the-beaten-track wines often hit the mark.Importer: Tri-Vin Imports, Mt. Vernon, NY; tel. (914) 664-3155