Brovia Ca' Mia Barolo DOCG, Piedmont, Italy

布洛維亞酒莊卡米婭園巴羅洛紅葡萄酒

點(diǎn)擊次數(shù)：4246

My money is on the 2009 Barolo Ca’ Mia for the longest aging potential of the bunch. The intensity and richness is bountiful, and seductive aromatic layers of dried fruit, licorice, tar, button mushroom and tobacco lift off the glass with building intensity. The wine’s texture is firmer and the length is decisively more rewarding. Anticipated maturity: 2016-2030. Spaniard Alex Sanchez is Piedmont’s favorite expat winemaker. His entree into the world of Barolo is by marriage, but his story fits seamlessly into the tale of father-and-son succession that drives this storied wine region. Brovia was founded in 1863 by grandfather Giacinto Brovia who left the property to his son Antonio. The heir died prematurely and the winery ceased to function for 20 years until Antonio’s son (named Giacinto after his grandfather) was able to restart the legacy. One of Giacinto’s two daughters, Elena, was next to take the baton. Her husband, MBA graduate Alex Sanchez, was quickly folded into the fray and has since become the soul (and smile) of the estate. The current lineup shows some exciting highlights (notably the Barolo Ca’ Mia with its exceptional beauty) but, all in all, the wines were not at the levels I had anticipated. The traditional style of the wine, normally so fine, silky and elegant, tasted thin and lean instead – possibly the result of those firm, slightly unhinged, 2009 tannins. Importer: Rosenthal Wine Merchant, Pine Plains, NY; tel. (518) 207-9100

Brovia’s Serralunga Barolo, the 2008 Barolo Ca’ Mia, saturates every corner of the palate. Dark fruit, smoke, melted road tar, graphite and incense wrap around the palate in this dramatic large-scaled Barolo. Even more promising than it was right after bottling, the 2008 impresses for its spherical personality and towering class. Serralunga is, of course, best known for producing powerful wines, but Brovia’s Ca’Mia is just as remarkable for its superb finesse and elegance. Anticipated maturity: 2020-2040. I can’t say enough good things about the Brovia family and what they have accomplished over the years, but especially over the last decade or so, which has seen them jump into the upper echelon of Barolo producers. The 2008s had just been bottled when I tasted them in November 2011. Now that the wines have been in bottle a little longer, it is clear they are fulfilling all of their early promise. Importer: Rosenthal Wine Merchants, Pine Plains, NY; tel. (800) 910-1990

The 2007 Barolo Ca’ Mia explodes from the glass with ripe dark fruit, smoke, incense, menthol, spices and tar. There is an exotic quality to the Ca’ Mia that is totally intriguing. Here, too, the richness of the year provides a lovely foil to the firm, underlying structural components that are very much present. The pointed finish gives the wine tons of drive and sheer energy. This is a striking Serralunga Barolo. Anticipated maturity: 2017-2032. Brovia’s 2007 Baroli are just as impressive from bottle as they were when I tasted them from barrel late last year. The straight Barolo is always the last to be bottled. I will report on that wine as soon as I have had a chance to taste it. Importer: Rosenthal Wine Merchants, Pine Plains, NY; tel. (800) 910-1990