Randall Grahm continues to explore the possibilities of Sangiovese, the most difficult red wine to get right in Calfornia. As always, it’s acidic and dry, with black cherry, currant, plum, wild herb and tobacco flavors, and hints of orange zest and licorice. A pretty, polished and sophisticated red wine at a good price.——S.H.(8/1/2009)—— 89