Camille Giroud Charmes-Chambertin Grand Cru, Cote de Nuits, France

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The 2013 Charmes-Chambertin Grand Cru has a well-defined, mineral-driven bouquet that expands wonderfully in the glass, a very typical Charmes for the vintage. The palate is medium-bodied with crisp, lithe tannin interlaced with pretty dark cherry and citrus fruit. The finish is wonderfully poised with great length. This is one of David Croix's best 2013s.

The 2010 Charmes-Chambertin is pure sensuality and finesse. Sweet red cherries, freshly cut flowers and mint are woven together in a finessed fabric bursting with style and class. This is a terrific showing. Giroud’s Charmes is true Charmes from the upper part of the vineyard. The fruit was 100% destemmed. Anticipated maturity: 2018-2030. Winemaker David Croix describes 2010 as being similar to 2002, but with more tension. The harvest started on September 23. About two-thirds of the wines were lightly chaptalized. None of these wines had been racked at the time of my visit in November 2011. Giroud fans will note the addition of two new Volnays to the lineup. I will report on the maison’s 2009s in the April issue. A Becky Wasserman Selection, Le Serbet, various American importers, including Grand Cru Selections, New York, NY; tel. (212) 974-2500; Veritas Imports, Beverly Hills, CA; tel. (310) 205-3803; Toepfer Imports LLC, CO; tel. (303) 818-7640

The 2009 Charmes-Chambertin is open, sleek and seductive. Silky tannins frame a ripe, generous core of fruit. This is a typical 2009 Charmes, long on the fruit but lacking a touch of verve that might otherwise elevate it. Dried flowers and red berries linger on the finish. This is a true Charmes sourced from the upper portion of that vineyard. Tasted from tank. Anticipated maturity: 2014-2029. I was very impressed with the wines I tasted at Camille Giroud. While top selections are hugely successful, readers should also pay attention to the village wines, which deliver plenty of character at accessible prices. Most of the wines are made from purchased fruit sourced from growers with whom the winery has long term relationships. The harvest took place between the 8th and 15th of September. Sugar levels were higher than in 2005. Macerations were on the long side in 2009, and ranged from 19-24 days versus the more typical 12-17. Most of the wines were made from 100% destemmed fruit, although a few selections - the Corton-Rognets and Chambertin in particular - saw some whole bunches. Malos were completed between February and April 2010 and the wines were not racked during their aging. Bottling began just after harvest 2010 for some of the early maturing reds, but most of the wines were still in barrel at the time of my visit in late February, with the exception of the Grands Crus, most of which had been racked into steel and were awaiting bottling towards the end of March. A Becky Wasserman Selection, Le Serbet, various American importers, including: Willette Wines, NJ; tel. (917) 400-2238; Veritas Imports, Beverly Hills, CA; tel. (310) 205-3803; Toepfer Imports LLC, CO; tel. (303) 818-7640