Camille Giroud Chapelle-Chambertin Grand Cru, Cote de Nuits, France

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Camille Giroud’s 2008 Chapelle-Chambertin – based on purchased must, and tasted from tank – smells of blueberry and boysenberry, cassis, and medicinal herbal extracts. Brimming with primary juiciness – while displaying tart fruit skin chew, bitter herbs, fruit pit, and chalky impingement on the palate – this (for now, at least) misses the sweetness of the corresponding Charmes or grip of the Latricieres. David Croix’s 2008 Camille Giroud collection was picked late; slow to evolve; and for the most part had not been bottled when I tasted in April. Although I missed out on a couple of wines in this year’s collection, the line-up from Camille Giroud was also smaller than in previous years. (I have not tasted the 2007s here. For details about the recent revival of Camille Giroud and about David Croix’s approach, readers are referred to reports in issues 160 and 170 respectively; and for reports on Croix’s own domaine, see under Domaine des Croix.) A Becky Wasserman Selection, Le Serbet (various importers); fax 011-333-80-24-29-70

Camille Giroud's 2006 Chapelle-Chambertin Champs (from purchased juice) boasts scents of blackberry, mulberry, and licorice with a whiff of smoke. Ample and firm but relatively fine tannins and suggestions of wet stone underlie its black fruits on a dense palate. This exhibits impressive if somewhat somber length, suggesting a wine that will probably be worth following for half a dozen years. David Croix racked his 2006s into tank earlier than normal in an attempt to preserve the maximum of fruit. (For details about the recent revival of Camille Giroud and about David Croix's approach, readers are referred to reports in issues 160 and 170 respectively. A Gevrey-Chambertin En Champs was too reduced from tank when I last tasted it to adequately access, but it definitely displayed potential and reflected its old vines of a tiny-berried selection; while a Clos Vougeot from purchased fruit was stuck in protracted malo.) A Becky Wasserman Selection, Le Serbet (various importers); fax 011-333-80-24-29-70