CARM Casa Agricola Roboredo Madeira Superior Branco, Douro, Portugal

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The 2011 BRANCO is a blend of Codega do Larinho, Rabigato and Viosinho. Clean, fresh and juicy in its youth, it is on the lighter side, but still persistent and with some solidity. Drink it fresh and it should be awfully tasting. Drink now-2014. Importer: Grape Moments, a Division of Sintra Imports, New Bedford, MA; tel. (508) 997-0100.

The 2010 Branco is an old vines blend, principally of Codega do Larinho and Rabigato, with some Viosinho and a tiny amount of Muscat. Rather herbaceous and laced with some grassy notes, this is nonetheless fruit forward and well integrated, with a feeling of richness (in its youth) to go with the invigorating aromatics. The fruit lingers deliciously and delightfully on the palate. This may not be the deepest, most ageworthy or most profound white you’ll find, but I wished I was drinking it instead of just tasting it. It is near peak now and will not likely improve much, however long it theoretically holds. Drink now-2014. Importer: Grape Moments, a Division of Sintra Imports, New Bedford, MA; tel. (508) 997-0100.

The 2008 BRANCO is crisp and quite charming this year, showing good depth, a lingering and flavorful finish and fine acidity. I’m always concerned with how these wines will age. They may decline fairly rapidly from peak, but if drunk young and fresh, they will not disappoint. It should be delightful this summer. Drink now-2012. CARM is one of the Douro’s under-the-radar producers, which is unfortunate since they always provide some bang for the buck. The ‘07s are nice examples of that. Note that I’ve dropped the parenthetical clarification I previously used for CARM’S producer name (explaining that CARM means Casa Agricola Roboredo Madeira). The “Roboredo Madeira” is clear enough on most of the labels anyway.Importer: Grape Moments, a Division of Sintra Imports, New Bedford, MA; tel. (508) 997-0100.