CARM Casa Agricola Roboredo Madeira Reserva Branco, Douro, Portugal

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The 2011 Branco Reserva is an old vines field blend comprising Douro grapes like Rabigato, Viosinho and Codega do Larinho, 50% aged in new French oak for 8 months. The oak is sometimes a bit too prominent early on, but this wine has nice solidity, some intensity on the finish and the acidity to cut through the oak. When this settles down a bit it should come into pleasing balance, but it does need to absorb that woody note just a bit better. Drink now-2016. Importer: Grape Moments, a Division of Sintra Imports, New Bedford, MA; tel. (508) 997-0100

The 2010 BRANCO RESERVA is a blend of Codega do Larinho, Rabigato and Viosinho, aged in a mixture of tank and barrel. Well, this is fun! I wasn’t quite expecting this to be built this way—refreshing, herbaceous and rather invigorating for a Douro white. Juicy, grassy and tasty, this may not have much upside for the long haul, but it does have some body and persistence and it drinks awfully well now. It should be a hit this summer for sure. Drink now-2014. Importer: Grape Moments, a Division of Sintra Imports, New Bedford, MA; tel. (508) 997-0100.

Soft and ripe, spiced up by new wood, this is a big, rounded, shapely wine. Tropical fruits are here, along with pear skins and some creaminess. A great food wine.——R.V.(7/1/2008)—— 89

The 2005 Reserva Branco is showing well one year after my first note. The hit of oak on the back end has continued to integrate, and the fruit shows a little steel now, too. It is solid in the mid-palate, refreshing, and charming. The finish is quite respectable, lingering and flavorful. Drink now-2010. CARM’s vineyards are located about 3 km from Spain, and right next to Quinta da Leda, the well known Casa Ferreirinha vineyard. CARM produced its first vintage in 1999. Excepting the Quinta do Coa bottlings, the wines are generally blends of up to 5 different Quintas. Most all of CARM's wines deliver bang for the buck.Importer: Grape Moments, a Division of Sintra Imports, New Bedford, MA; tel. (508) 997-0100.