The 2003 LEO D-HONOR is 100% Castelao from 60 year old vines, late harvested and aged in French oak half barrels for 12 months and then barriques for another 12 months. The -Leo d-Honor- is produced only in what the winery deems to be the best years. Ripe, young Castelao can sometimes project a candied note at first, if you haven't had it before, but it can also be pretty sexy. The fruit on first attack is simply delicious, though, throwing off ripe strawberries and rhubarb nuances, and there is less oak flavor apparent here than in the Reserva reviewed this issue, despite the time spent in oak. Give it a little air so that the components can come into balance. It is very bright, elegantly wrought and aromatic. It also easily has the best structure in the group, showing significant tannins on the finish that should allow it to age gracefully for several more years in the cellar. I liked this as much or better every time I came back to over the course of several hours, as it became more distinctive and complex, while remaining persistent and fresh. All those good things said, the very dramatic bump in price may make many think twice before choosing this over the good 2004 Reserva or even the overachieving 2006 Tinto reviewed here. Still, it's pretty nice. There were 750 cases produced. Drink now-2015. Importers: Vino Cava, LLC, Wayne, PA; tel: (610) 688-8415; Aidil Wines & Liquors, a division of Olde World Imports, Inc., Rahway, NJ; tel. (973) 642-0044