Casca Wines Reserva Branco Monte Cascas

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The 2009 RESERVA BRANCO “MONTE CASCAS” from Douro is a blend of Rabigato (90%) and Codega do Larinho (10%), oak aged, 25% new. It is relatively deep and piercing, with a fair bit of oak showing and a certain sour vanilla note on opening that resolves to some extent with some warmth and air. This has some merits, including fine depth and a longer finish than the regular Branco reviewed this issue, but stylistically it is different enough to divide consumers along various lines. Pick your preferred style. This should go better with food of the two, but the oak will always be noticeable. It should hold a bit, but is likely going to show best young. Drink now-2013. These wines are part of Joe Veselko’s (formerly having worked at Pocas) Wine Project Portugal import venture, designed to showcase various Portuguese regions and grapes. The Casca winemakers are Frederico Gomes (formerly of Herdade da Malhadinha Nova) and Helder Cunha, who worked at Kent Rasmussen and Vinhos Borges. The Monte Cascas brand label means “pile of shells,” very loosely, the origin of the name for Cascais, the winemakers’ home town, not far from Lisbon. The Cape Roca brand label, with various maritime and nautical themes like “boat” and “fisherman,” references Portugal’s connection with the Atlantic Ocean, as Cape Roca is the westernmost point of the European continent. The Cape Roca wines are meant to be a little more approachable and accessible to the average consumer. They tend to be made in greater quantities and are often at lower price points—at the least, the ultra premium wines are under the Monte Cascas label. Finally, make sure you’re looking at the right region in the reviews. There may be more than one 2008 Casca Reserva Tinto, for example—one from Douro, one from Alentejo, etc.Importer: Laurel Importers, Bristol, R.I.; tel: (401) 396-9661

The 2008 RESERVA BRANCO “MONTE CASCAS” from Minho (the regional appellation surrounding Vinho Verde) is a blend of Arinto (90%) and Avesso (10%) aged for 8 months in new French oak. It is one of those wines that will not meet many visions of what people think should happen in this region because it has lots of oak. Oak is not always a negative here, and in some wines in the region it has been handled rather well. That said, while this is fairly well constructed and does have some merits, including some of that acidity that the ’08 vintage well delivered, it does seem dominated by the oak to a point and seems brooding and sturdy rather than tasty and zesty. This probably won’t be everyone’s cup of tea, but it has some good points if it is your style. Drink now-2012. These wines are part of Joe Veselko’s (formerly having worked at Pocas) Wine Project Portugal import venture, designed to showcase various Portuguese regions and grapes. The Casca winemakers are Frederico Gomes (formerly of Herdade da Malhadinha Nova) and Helder Cunha, who worked at Kent Rasmussen and Vinhos Borges. The Monte Cascas brand label means “pile of shells,” very loosely, the origin of the name for Cascais, the winemakers’ home town, not far from Lisbon. The Cape Roca brand label, with various maritime and nautical themes like “boat” and “fisherman,” references Portugal’s connection with the Atlantic Ocean, as Cape Roca is the westernmost point of the European continent. The Cape Roca wines are meant to be a little more approachable and accessible to the average consumer. They tend to be made in greater quantities and are often at lower price points—at the least, the ultra premium wines are under the Monte Cascas label. Finally, make sure you’re looking at the right region in the reviews. There may be more than one 2008 Casca Reserva Tinto, for example—one from Douro, one from Alentejo, etc.Importer: Laurel Importers, Bristol, R.I.; tel: (401) 396-9661