The name sounds Italian, but this is made in Portugal’s Douro Valley, up in the hills near the Spanish border. According to the importer, it’s a blend of indigenous Codega, Viosinho and Rabigato grapes. Whatever it is, it shows skillfully managed barrel treatment in its lush, rich, creamy texture and vanilla notes, but those elements seamlessly blend with ripe citrus (think oranges or tangerines) and gingery spice. A long finish cements this wine’s impressive quality. ——J.C.(11/15/2006)—— 90
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