Caves Transmontanas Gouveio Espumante Bruto Vertice

點(diǎn)擊次數(shù)：2273

The 2005 Gouveio Espumante Brut (Vertice) has 10% of its Gouveio from the superlative 2004 vintage (which, if anything, I originally underrated), and 5% Malvasia Fina from 2005, together with the main component, 85% Gouveio from 2005. After aging in bottle for 48 months (degorgement in May, 2010), 7,000 bottles were released at what seems to be a very reasonable suggested retail price for all that work. Very crisp, the longer this was open, the better it showed. Most will not be expecting Portuguese sparklers to improve with air. These do, at the upper level. Showing somewhat differently this year, it has a very earthy, mineral-washed, almost truffled nuance that I do not recall on the 2004 at a similar stage. There is a hint of oxidation and a sauvage note, cut by the earthy, truffled demeanor. It is more elegant than the 2004, although still gripping and probably more complex. This Gouveio Espumante is drinking just beautifully now that it has settled down. It should be interesting to watch this age. Drink now-2017.

The 2004 GOUVEIO ESPUMANTE BRUTO (VERTICE) was very fine the first time I saw it, but revisiting it recently showed just how fine it is. A monovarietal sparkler aged in bottle for 48 months, it was originally tight and brooding, but has opened beautifully, becoming more civilized while remaining powerful, pointed and crisp. It still has very good depth. Perfectly balanced, it is a penetrating and beautifully constructed sparkler. There were only 5,890 bottles made, and at this point you probably won't find this if you don't already own it, but perhaps this note will provoke some anticipation for the '05. Drink now-2017.This winery founded by the late Jack Davies of Schramsberg (although his family and company are no longer associated with Caves Transmontanas) is best known for its sparkling wines, and lately they-ve been making a statement in that area. The red wines have improved quite a bit and are quite nice now, too, and the whites are often very nice and good values, but it is hard to overlook what they achieve in sparklers. Let's just say I-ve heard -You mean this is Portuguese????- quite a few times. Alas, the new release -05 Gouveio was not received in time to include in this report. It will be supplemented in the February issue.Importer: V.O.S. Selections, New York, NY; tel. (212) 967-6948.